Saturday, February 17, 2007

The Zen of the Onsen

The archipelago that is Japan is made up of thousands of Islands, over fifty percent of which is covered with mountains and forest. Japan is located where several continental plates meet and consequently it is often wracked with the shudders of earthquakes and boast a number of active volcanoes. Though occasionally devastating these fierce forces of nature also have attractions. Hot water infused with minerals from deep within the earth’s core flow from the mountains. This water is considered sacred to the Japanese people. Traditionally it holds the keys to spiritual purification, beauty, fertility, rejuvenation, and health. Historically a visit to the local hot spring was a daily affair; to wash the body, cleanse the soul and catch up on town gossip.
Now, most of these natural wonders are housed and charge and admission fee.

Despite the rich religious traditions tied so closely with the culture most Japanese citizens claim to be atheist. However, past religious practices have blended seamlessly with present daily life. The observances have become matters of superstition and luck rather than faith. The rituals surrounding the Onsen (Japanese for hot spring) are still observed with fervor. The springs are only to be entered once you have washed thoroughly. Soap is often provided, as well as shampoo, conditioner and a plethora of other facial and body cosmetics. Once you are all spick and span you can test the waters. There are usually quite a variety of luxuries to choose from including: indoor and outdoor baths, mineral baths, herbal baths, bubblers, jets, steam rooms, and saunas. So, for five to ten dollars you can soak your sins away and cleanse your pores at the same time.

Unfortunately, for some there is a downside to this paradise. The baths are to be entered completely nude; even jewelry is discouraged. Though it may sound difficult, after a few moments of sheer terror you begin to realize the peace, call it Zen if you will, of being naked in open spaces. Of course men and women have separate bathing areas, and you are given a small rectangle of cloth called a “decency towel.” Clinging to my “shred of decency,” I head off to the local onsens regularly. It is my favorite thing to do in the winter season. Most Japanese people will bathe for an hour, but to get the most soak for my buck I try to make a day of it and stay for hours.

Despite the steryotypical politeness of the Japanese there is a constant tension between social propriety and a curiosity. My Northern European physique may as well have flashing neon signs that announce my presence to the other bathers, especially the elderly, who are typically shorter than the younger generations. They find it novel to compare the height of the top of their heads to the height of my naval and breasts; which when I am naked can seem quite invasive.

Communal bathing is a completely foreign concept to most North Americans who cease to take communal baths in early childhood. However being able to see, in a single glance, very real people in every stage of life from an infant to the aged is a refreshingly complete way of experiencing the maturing of the body. Perhaps we in North America would not be so shocked at the changes in our own bodies if from an early age we appreciated the beauty of the aging cycle as the Japanese do in their sacred hot springs.